The Thinking Fashionista

"You are not a less intelligent or worthy woman for enjoying fashion. Remember, Simone de Beauvoir wore Chanel."
- Mary Woodward (The Guardian)

Fashionistas, and the fashion industry in general, have a bit of an image problem. Usually portrayed as either superficial divas or bitches-on-heels, those of us who are involved in the industry (or just interested in fashion) are stuck defending ourselves and our intelligence. But to paraphrase the thinking woman's fashionista Almost Girl, are Plato and Prada really mutually exclusive?

Not a chance. Success in the fashion industry comes from a unique combination of business sense and artistic ability. Even if you're just a spectator, an interest in fashion is actually not all that different from an interest in art, architecture, or music - fashion design is a form of art that is intertwined with all the others. The fashion reflects the art, music, and culture of the greater society.

So don't apologize for your interest in fashion; intelligent women do enjoy fashion, both for its own sake and because image is everything. The ability to craft your own image and style is central to the fashion, and it the reason it matters to everyone, not just designers, and magazine editors, and trendy girls. It's definitely possible to be a brilliant, well-rounded, thinking fashionista - check out the rest of the State of the Fashion Union bloggers for more than enough evidence.

Style vs. Fashion

This post by the brilliant Erin at Dress-a-Day reminded me of the difference between being fashionable (simply following the trends) and stylish. Clearly, we State of the Fashion Union bloggers all enjoy fashion, or we wouldn't write about it or even think about it so much. But what do fashion and style mean to us? The girls of I am Fashion posted about what fashion means to them, and why it is important, and Counterfeit-Chic, blogged about how much fashion has changed - Now it is more than okay to be a smart woman who loves fashion.

At it's most basic, style can be considered a simple means of expression for an individual, while fashion is part of the culture and a huge industry. Style is unique and personal, and fashion is made up of trends and marketing (really, it is). A great illustration: a fashionable person would wear "formal shorts" with textured tights, wedges, a frilly blouse and a Chloe bag (real or fake). A stylish person might wear each of the these elements (except for the fake bag), but probably not together, and they would only wear them if they fit into their personal style. Some of the most stylish people in fashion history had very narrowly defined wardrobes - Jackie O, Coco Chanel, Audrey Hepburn.

Fashion and style are not mutually exclusive, however - look to the fabulous Manolo to see how much you can have with fashion, or check out Verbal Croquis and Final Fashion to read about the fashion industry from a stylish insider's perspective. In fact, this is one of the most valuable and interesting things about the State of the Fashion Union - the dialogue about fashion, style, and our perspectives on everything. Thanks to Fashiontribes and AlmostGirl for creating and organizing it!

Screen Actors Guild Awards

Another week, another awards show - and the Fashionable Kiffen is here to tell you who looked glamorous, and who looked...well, not so glamorous.

Zhang Ziyi: The Memoirs of a Geisha star is 2 for 2 for awards show gowns. Her dress was ethereal and elegant, and she wore it perfectly.

Reese Witherspoon: Her black and white ruffled frock suited her personality, and her hair and makeup were gorgeous, but the look just didn't add up. Perhaps it was the poor fit of the dress.

Felicity Huffman: The color is beautiful, but the shape is a little less than flattering. She did better than her fellow Housewives, Teri Hatcher and Eva Longoria, however.

Eva Longoria: The color and shape of her dress, while extremely trendy right now, did nothing for her figure. At least her forties-inspired hair was outstanding.

Sandra Bullock: The shape is awkward (it should have been floor-length or without the bubble hem) and the color washed her out. She could have done better.

Sandra Oh: She looked stunning. The cut, the colors, the sparkly brooch at her hip - everything worked. Her, Angela Bassett, and Zhang Ziyi were the best dressed of the night.

Anne Hathaway: Well, she looked like she got lost on her way to the Renaissance Faire. Harsh makeup, poor posture, and a costumey dress add up to a fashion mistake for her.


Angela Bassett: A perfect example of an older woman who dresses appropriately and looks fabulous. The color is great, the shape is great, and the hair and makeup are flawless.

Jaime Pressly: Someone forgot to tell her that it's the SAG awards, not the Oscars. She looked pretty, but overdone for one of the more casual shows of the season.

Well, neither the Golden Globes and the Screen Actors Guild awards had any true fashion emergencies, but there's always the Oscars or the Grammys - and you can count on the Kiffen to keep you posted on the most fabulous and the most atrocious ensembles that Hollywood has to offer.

Happy Chinese New Year!

China, and Asia in general, have become incredibly important to the fashion industry in recent years. China, India, and Japan are not only manufacturing centers; they are a huge market that is growing by leaps and bounds. In fact, it is the Japanese customers that have kept some of the big luxury brands afloat. Chanel, Burberry, Prada, and Louis Vuitton are popular labels, but lesser known brands are popular as well. In fact, the shopping in cities like Shanghai is some of the best in the world, whether you are looking for cheap chic or Balenciaga.

So where is this trend going? I anticipate even more interest in Asia from companies like LVMH, but I also think that smaller labels will be looking eastward. Consumers in Asian countries tend to be mainly young people with lots of disposable income (it is not abnormal to live with your parents until marriage, even for those who are out of school and working), so they are especially susceptible to trends and marketing.

New brands, trends, and styles from Asia will also be big in in the West. Think about it - many designers now are influenced by Japanese and Chinese street style, so it is only a matter of time before Asian brands move westward. It's already happening with premium denim, and designers like Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake, and Yohji Yamamoto have been major innovators in the fashion world. Asia has long been a source of new products and fresh ideas for most industries, and fashion is really no different.

Asian fashion magazines are even becoming more prominent. The Japanese street-style magazines, such as Fruits, are collector's items, and Vogue China consistently features the work of top photographers and models. India's in on the act, as well - Mumbai Fashion Week is growing rapidly.

Overall, both the big names and indie labels, are starting to cater to the powerful Asian markets - designers (including Chanel and Prada) are even starting to reprise their shows in Tokyo and Shanghai. So perhaps we should be looking east toward the future of fashion?

Always in Fashion: Makeovers

Want to get a fabulous new wardrobe for about $200? Change your haircut and color. It really does make everything have you look completely different, especially items like makeup and jewelry. For example, cut your hair short and all of sudden, your earrings are the most important part of your outfit. Change your color from blonde to brunette (or just a new shade of the same color) and even your most tried and true items will look fresh.

I just got a new haircut and color (yes, even the Fashionable Kiffen needs a makeover from time to time), and it was a big change. It's an ultra-short, platinum blonde pixie style - it definitely makes a statement. And it makes all my clothes and accessories look that much more fabulous. (For those you in the Chicago area, I went to the Anthony Peters Salon in Oak Park, and they are amazing). It's made me think, however, about makeovers and their role in fashion and our culture in general. After all, there are so many makeover shows on TV that you can probably watch someone getting made over 24/7, if you were so inclined.

But really, everyone loves a good makeover story. From Emma to My Fair Lady to Clueless, our movies, TV and pop culture are filled with Cinderella-style transformations. Shopping itself is really about makeovers - why else would we want new things? Every shopping trip is a chance to try on a new look, a new style, or even a new personality. After all, nothing livens up a basic black look like a pair of hot pink shoes. Fashion, in the end, is really about adding some of that zing to every day. It's about the fantasy - that a new look can make you a new and different person.

So what's the deal? Although no woman should underestimate the transformative power of a new haircut or the perfect little black dress (sometimes, a new shade of lipstick really is all takes to brighten up a bad day), we seem to have gotten the notion that getting your teeth bleached, dyeing your hair blonde, or slipping into a pair of designer jeans will solve all your problems.

Now clearly, no one is immune to the power of a fantastic haircut, or a perfect new outfit. It really can change your outlook on life. But that's all - changing your appearance cannot change your life (with the possible exception of losing large amounts of weight). It can and will put a spring in your step and a smile on your face, but a makeover can't make your problems go away. We're on a slippery slope here - plastic surgery, which is becoming not only fashionable but common, is being touted as the "answer" by the media. However, a new look, no matter how drastic a change, can't make your problems go away.

What a makeover can do, however, is rejuvenate you; a new hairstyle will make you feel bulletproof. Next time you've got a major interview, or another nerve-racking event, try wearing a new pair of shoes. Add highlights to your hair. Or even just wear a bold color you've never tried before that looks great with your complexion. You'll be invincible.

But you've got to keep it all in perspective; you may feel like someone else, but even in a chic new suit (or a new nose!), you''re still the same fabulous person whether you're wearing Kmart or Chanel. Take a makeover for what it's worth - change is one of the reasons we all love fashion - but remember that sometimes a haircut is just a haircut.

History in the Making

"Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening."
- Coco Chanel

By now, most of you have read Cathy Horyn's article in the New York Times about how fashion is two clicks behind. She's unfortunately correct - the fashion industry has yet to fully embrace the digital revolution. The system of exclusive shows attended by the top buyers and editors, who then filter the trends down to the waiting masses hasn't been altered in decades. But the way the masses think about fashion definitely has changed.

The internet has drastically altered the way we do business in just a decade or so. It has given an aspiring fashionista in Manhattan, Kansas, for example, the same access to designer goods as her counterpart in NYC. Thanks to the Net, everyone can get pretty much anything. Fashion has been democratized.

We don't need to wait for magazines to show us the best of the runways every season, either. We can see the whole show and form our own opinions about it; or we can avoid the runways all together and check out street style or blogs from around the world for inspiration. With sites like stylediary, people from virtually anywhere can communicate and share ideas on fashion, style, and what's hot. The internet has essentially cut out the middleman.

The print media will always be important and relevant to fashion - the editorials, the stories, and the advertising vehicles are all important to the industry. But the machine has started to operate differently - buzz on the net can move a product far more quickly than a feature in Vogue or Elle. The web has a distinct advantage over print too - it's instant. Mere seconds after a model walks down the runway, the item can not only be viewed online, it can be for sale as well. The internet has the potential to speed up the fashion cycle tremendously, even more than it already has.

Bloggers have made an impact too, and really the fashion blogging community is only going to grow. "The State of the Fashion Union" could be the beginning of a shift in the way the industry operates. What's stylish now is no longer the sole province of the industry's top brass - the internet has made grassroots trends more possible and more common than ever.

Fashion's not quite a democracy yet, but it's not a dictatorship either. Although trends from the streets have always been an important part of the industry, the internet fashion community has made those very "streets" into a powerful voice and a force to be reckoned with. After all, fashion is supposed to be "for the people". So who's ready to put on their stilettos and participate in the revolution?

From Chicago to Paris by way of Kathmandu

The Fashionable Kiffen certainly admires (and aspires to) Parisian style, but sometimes it's difficult to bring a little bit of that chicness to the Midwest. One of the easiest ways to do it? Get a fabulous scarf that can be worn a million different ways.

A gorgeous scarf is probably the most quintessential Parisian accessory; from silk squares to embroidered wraps, Parisiennes wear them all with that certain je ne sais quoi only French women have. One of the most fabulous styles that is perpetually popular in Paris is the plush cashmere shawl, worn as a shawl, scarf, or evening wrap. These shawls can come in every color of the rainbow, trimmed with embroidery and sparkling beads, or hand painted with exquisite patterns.

Worn knotted around the neck with a sleek wool coat, these luxurious scarves look stylish yet casual, worn around the shoulders with a little black dress, the look is movie star glamorous. A cashmere wrap can make huge difference in your wardrobe. It works with everything from jeans to black tie gowns, and it will keep you toasty warm while still looking absolutely chic; you'll want a different shawl for every day of the week!

Some of the best cashmere shawls can be found at Silk Road Importers, purveyor of exotic merchandise from, you guessed it, along the Silk Road. Their cashmere is comparable in quality to TSE and Lucien Pellen-Finat, and the prices are much more reasonable because they get the goods straight from the source in Nepal.

For a sturdy, everyday shawl or scarf, a blend of cashmere and silk (for instance, 70% cashmere and 30%) is actually much more durable than pure cashmere, but the piece should still be mostly cashmere for that buttery-soft feel. For those of you looking for something a little more out of the ordinary, Silk Road Importers also carries beaded jamowar shawls, jewelry, and fantastic silk wraps. They definitely get the Fashionable Kiffen's stamp of approval.

A beaded jamowar shawl like the one to the left is one of the best items a girl can have. They can dress up jeans and a tee, and they look equally fabulous with an evening dress. Really, how many of your accessories can you say that about? It's worth its weight in gold.

Vive la Haute Couture!

The reports of couture's death have been greatly exaggerated...

Despite the fact that many couturiers have closed their doors and shuttered their ateliers, the spirit of haute couture is alive and well in Paris this season. From Valentino's exquisite beadwork to Christian Lacroix's trademark mix of bold colors and patterns, the shows thus far have been truly spectacular.

Armani Privé: Giorgio Armani's first attempt at couture was exactly what one would expect from him: simple, wearable suits, graceful column dresses, and lots of beige. There were some fantastic jackets and gorgeous beadwork, but most of it looked like slightly more expensive versions of his ready to wear. Armani did go out on a limb with a few dresses composed of layered ruffles and his "visionary"curlicue headpieces, however. Still, there's no doubt that it will please his loyal clients, and some of these dresses will definitely end up on the red carpets.

Valentino: ethereal, lightweight dresses fit for a princess. Valentino was inspired by the colors and mood of desert, and he showed his collection against a backdrop of the desert landscape, making the models look modern Cleopatras (the dramatic makeup didn't hurt, either). The clothes were almost entirely done in whites and shades of sand, except for his trademark red dress at the end, of course. Although it was beautiful (Valentino has a master hand with embellishment), this collection didn't quite capture the magic of couture - many of the clothes were unflattering and like Armani, it could have been ready to wear with more expensive details.


Chanel: Karl Lagerfield is an old hand at couture, and it showed with his Mlle. Coco inspired collection. This was a softer version of the classic Coco look, with lots of ruffles and lace, but it was grounded with flat black and white boots paired with almost everything to excellent effect. The presentation itself was absolutely stunning, with the models coming down a stark white staircase in the center of the Petit Palais - echoes of Coco's atelier in a intriguingly modern space.

Christian Dior: John Galliano is a mad genius who, if he wasn't in fashion, would probably be in a padded room somewhere. At his collection for Dior, the ghosts of the French Revolution haunted the catwalk wearing billowing skirts, corsets, and complicated jackets spattered in embroidery. Accessorized by massive crosses, crocodile boots, and the year "1789" (the year of the French Revolution) stenciled on their bodies, his eerily made-up models stalked down the runway to the sounds of Madonna's new album. Theatrical and over-the-top, the show was fantastic and completely Galliano to the very end, when he came out dressed in torn leather and brandishing a rapier. Love him or hate him, you have to admit Galliano is nothing if not daring. As for the Kiffen, j'dore Dior!

Christian Lacroix: This is what couture should be: a fantasy world populated by extraordinary characters wearing amazing costumes. Lacroix's collection was definitely not ready to wear in any sense of the phrase, but that is point of couture. He is a master at mixing color, pattern and texture, resulting in controlled chaos that is closer to art than clothing. Inspired by his native Arles, this collection mixed the Mediteranean with French baroque for a sublime result.

In the end, haute couture is art, not fashion. It's meant to be a designer's fantasy - not to be wearable (the designs are always adjusted to client's specifications, and generally toned down). It also serves as advertising; the more over-the-top, the more attention a show attracts. And attention is what drives fashion.

What would the Kiffen Wear? (Oscar Edition)

The Hollywood awards show season is in full swing, and with it comes the good, the bad, and the ugly of celebrity outfits. So instead of just merely commenting on the dresses as they appear, I'm going to put my own choices out there for you to comment on.

Now, the choice of the dress depends on the mood of the Kiffen. This fantastic Roberto Cavalli dress would be a showstopper on the red carpet: the color is stunning and the shape is quite flattering. It would work well with classic red lips and rubies (come on, it's the Oscars - the borrowed Harry Winston and Fred Leighton jewels come with the territory).

For a look with more classic glamour, this Oscar de la Renta dress, reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina, would be an excellent choice. With a dress this formal, you need relaxed makeup and hair, so simple smoky eyes, nude lips, and loose hair would be perfect. Silver accessories, maybe with a few diamonds here and there, would be a great pick.
Pucci would be a bold choice for the Oscars - the colors, the print, the sheer fabulousness of the dress would make it an excellent choice. With a dress this breezy, hair and makeup would have to be quite defined. A sleek french twist, bright fuschia gloss, and shimmery white shadow with black liner would take this dress to the next level. Add a pair of turquoise strappy sandals, and you're red carpet ready.


This Valentino dress is the most avant-garde of the choices, yet it is still undeniably appropriate for big Hollywood night. Black Tahitian pearls, smoky eyes, and some gorgeous jeweled sandals would complete the ensemble for a memorable Oscar look.

The most important thing about Oscar dressing, or any big night, is to remember to have fun with your style. It's only fashion, so don't take it too seriously.

Carnivale of Couture - Fashion Island

The theme (from the super fantastic Manolo, of course)

"You are stranded at a lifelong party at the Island of Superfantasticness. What are the fashion items you simply can't live without?"

Well, the most important item is earrings - the Kiffen is naked without them. These gold and black pearl beauties would look nice with the tan that's sure to appear.

Next is a pair of heels. Since animal prints are always in fashion in the Kiffen's closet, a pair of fabulous leopard Louboutins would do the trick:

Or maybe these Manolos:

Why not take both? A girl has to have a variety of footwear.

Of course, a little black dress is the perfect thing to wear now and forever:






And of course, a little red bag. Red is the Kiffen's favorite color for bags - it goes with absolutely everything, it's much more interesting than brown or black, and bright red works for all seasons.


It's not exactly an evening bag, but this Isabella Fiore tasselled bag will hold everything that is necessary on a desert island.

Let the super fantastic party begin!





Thanks to the stylish trio at Shangri-law for hosting.

The State of the Fashion Union

This year, history will be made when New York fashion week goes digital!

The "State of the Fashion of the Union" is a blogging event hosted by Fashion Tribes and Almost Girl that will consist of daily updates beginning January 27th about New York fashion week and fashion in general. Both of those fabulous sites will act as blog portals and provide daily summaries from approximately 30 top fashion blogs - and the Fashionable Kiffen will be one of them. In addition, Fashion Tribes will be reporting live from Bryant Park throughout the week (February 3-10, 2006). Expect fantastic insider information on the latest trends, the best and worst shows, and backstage interviews.

This event is being produced in partnership with Glam.com and Pajamas Media.

Read the full press release here

Versace Revival

Versace's brand of bold, in-your-face glam is back in a big way - and not just on Donatella's catwalks, although she showed a fabulous, desert-inspired collection for the spring.

The bright and glossy look showed up at Fendi with patent and clear plastic waist-cinching belts worn over everything, and the candy-colored patent leather "B" bags. It appeared again at Armani with slinky jackets and dresses in acid-bright colors, and at Louis Vuitton, the look was classic Gianni by way of Marc Jacobs - girlish little dresses in bright vinyl and lots of gold bling. And of course, tons of fuschia, red, and other saturated shades.
Speaking of shades, huge glam sunglasses are also back, along with snakeskin, chain belts (shown by Alexander McQueen), and wiggle-tight pencil skirts. Satin blouses and cigarette pants complete the classic Versace look, along with tons of gold chains, of course. It's all a bit Eurotrash, but that's part of what makes the Versace look so chic.
Of course, Versace itself has never looked better. With a stunning collection done mainly in bronze and turquoise hues, Donatella returned from rehab with a bang. One of the dresses, a beaded halter style, was even chosen by Teri for the Golden Globes, and the latest ads have features star like Halle Berry, Madonna and Demi Moore.

So when you are choosing your spring wardrobe, don't forget the bold colors, the glitter, and the bling. If a red vinyl dress is little too much for you, try a gold chain belt over your favorite slinky dress, or wear a feminine satin blouse with narrow pants.

Or just get a pair of their huge, fabulous sunglasses, and wear them with everything for a little bit of Versace glamour.

The Golden Globes 2006

The Golden Globes tend to be the most relaxed of the big awards shows - it's the first of the majors and there's food and drink aplenty - so some stars tend to treat as a sort of fashion warm-up for the Oscars. Tonight, there were a few great dresses, a few awful dresses, and a whole lot of safe dresses. Now, like many spectators, the Kiffen would rather see something outrageous than another basic black dress. Here are some of the standouts:

Emmy Rossum: Pretty enough, but kind of boring. And the color does nothing for her - this dress would have been better in a rich jewel tone.

Sarah Jessica Parker: Again, nothing truly offensive, but nothing fabulous or particularly flattering either. Did she learn nothing from her six years on Sex and the City?

Jessica Alba: One of the many wearing draped goddess dresses. Pretty enough, but she (and Versace) can do better.

Hillary Swank: She looks thin and elegant, but completely ummemorable. And she needs to work on her posture. However, she can do no wrong after her amazing backless Oscar dress last year. Hillary gets a pass.

Evangeline Lilly: Finally, someone is wearing a color, and a gorgeous color at that. One of the many women in goddess style dresses that night, her's is perhaps the best.

The Desperate Housewives:
Felicity Huffman looked amazing in her flowy white dress - although it does resemble a wedding gown, the look worked for her. Teri Hatcher's Art Deco halter gown was the best of the five, and one of the most interesting dresses of the night.

Nicolette Sheridan and Eva Longoria both looked nice but played it safe (isn't that red dress exactly what you would expect Eva to wear?), and Marcia Cross went out on a limb and choose a vivid coral goddess gown that worked surprisingly well with her red hair.

Zhang Ziyi: The Memoirs of a Geisha star had the best dress of the night. The color was amazing, the shape was perfect, and she wore it beautifully.

Fergie: The Black Eyed Peas singer always looks like an off-duty stripper or a tranvestite. At the Globes, she had a little of both going on.



Charlize Theron: She's a beautiful woman wearing Dior couture, and yet the look still went horribly wrong. The dress was unflattering and alarmingly see through.

Kate Beckinsale: Lackluster from the front, gorgeous from the back; she's one for two. Next time maybe she'll get the whole look.

Keira Knightley: One of the many who chose white, her dress had interesting details that almost kept it from being boring.

Mariah Carey: Somehow, she makes Chanel look like a J.C. Penney prom dress. Mariah needs to remember that she can actually sing, so she doesn't need to wear the sausage casing satin to sell albums.

And that's it for this year's Globes. By the way, if the Kiffen had been in attendance, the dress could be only have been one of these Versaces:

Say what you will about Donatella, but she does big night glamour like no other.