Sophie Kokosalaki - Up and Coming

Sophie is one of the most watched young designers of the moment, and her name is being mentioned for the vacant head designer position at Chloe, or for possible revival of Vionnet. Regardless of where or what she may do, her recent collection was stunning, in both the technique (she is known for her draping abilities) and the finished looks - a bit of the eighties with a British glam-rock feel.

Her coats had a very casual, just-thrown-on vibe while still being quite tailored, and the capes managed to look sleek and classic instead of costumey (always a difficult thing to pull off with capes). I particularly liked a gorgeous white number with a black belt.

Most of the looks were done in black, white, and soft browns, which is still refreshing after last year's boho color overload. Other standouts included a cuddly white sweaterdress and a tailored yet slouchy pantsuit. In fact, the crisp but relaxed look is what Sophie does best.

For evening, she went for the gold with a series of burnished short dresses and blouses paired with pencil skirts. The looks were grounded with black tights and heavy boots, and the bubble hem made an appearance at yet other fall show - this is definitely a trend that will stick around for a while. I think we may see these dresses on the red carpet as well, on some of the quirkier starlets.

With this collection, her largest yet, Sophie has established herself as one to watch, whether she heads to a major label or not. Personally, I would love to see her at Vionnet - her abilities would mesh with Vionnet's elegance and style (Madame Vionnet herself invented the bias cut and was famous for her softly draped gowns). It could prove to be a perfect fit.