Several very NYC collections were shown this week, especially Proenza Schouler and Zac Posen. P.S.'s collection did not veer far from their signature feminine look with a rock and roll edge, in a dark palette of blacks, purples, and grays.
Their fitted coats and belted dresses were especially good, and they styled almost everything with opaque black tights - dark tights are definitely a major trend for fall (they were featured in many of the NY shows). Another popular item was the use of leather gloves (either at the wrist or elbow) as a daytime accessory; these gloves can give more girly looks a bit of toughness.
Zac Posen showed an almost entirely black collection, and the strongest looks were the skinny black suits and the folded and pleated little satin dresses. The cropped and distressed leather jackets with short sleeves and volume at the shoulder (this is definitely turning out be an important silhouette for fall) are sure to be popular. Both of these collections had that quintessential urban look that New York is known for (lots of black, leather, and sleek shapes).
Derek Lam showed a very strong collection with a bit more color. His kelly green trench coat would certainly brighten a gray winter day, this black and ivory dress is just about perfect, and the asymmetrical chiffon gowns are definitely going to be seen on the red carpet.
One New York designer with a very clearly defined aesthetic is Anna Sui, and she updated her typical bohemian mix with a bit of classic Coco (Chanel, that is). A riotous mix of prints combined with ladylike shapes and intricately embellished accessories (especially the incredible boots) added up to make this one of her best shows ever.
As for celebrity favorite Heatherette, I think my fellow fashion bloggers Shangri-Law did such an excellent job reviewing that collection that there's nothing more to say.
Come back tomorrow for more fashion week reviews (including Karl Lagerfield's eponymous line!), and head to Almost Girl and Fashion Tribes to hear what other bloggers are saying about NY fashion week>
Friday, February 10, 2006
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