Style is Forever

"Dress shabbily, and they notice the dress. Dress impeccably, and they notice the woman."
- Coco Chanel

Yet another nugget of wisdom from the great Coco. Seriously, that woman was a genius. She was correct, though, in that style can be the one thing that makes you stand out from the pack. However, being stylish isn't always synonymous with being fashionable. Here are my personal rules for developing your style:

1. Buy the best quality you can afford. Scour stores like Marshalls and TJ Maxx in order to find high quality at decent prices. You can find some awesome suits, dresses, and sweaters there by designers like BCBG, Max Studio, and Tahari.

2. Don't wear the colors that are trendy, wear what looks good on you. If yellow is popular but makes you look jaundiced, leave it on the rack.

3. In fact, wear what looks good on you in general. Don't wear trendy shapes if they don't flatter for figure. The beauty of fashion is that there is something for everyone. Check out magazines and street style if you are not sure what works for your body.

4. If you want to follow the trends, do it with accessories. Wear bold ethnic jewelry or heavy gothic crosses, or whatever else the designers are showing that you like.

5. Find a signature piece, like a black pearl necklace, a bold fuschia lipgloss, or a tiger-print scarf that you wear a lot. It should be your unique item though - never copy another women's signature.

6. Take the time to dress your best every day. You never know who may meet. Indeed as Coco herself said "Its best to be as pretty as possible for destiny."

Showstopper

Move over, Dior and Valentino. There's a new designer in Paris, and he can cut an elegant yet still sexy evening dress. Elie Saab is probably best known for creating the claret colored embroidered ball gown that Halle Berry wore when she won her Best Actress Oscar. However, he's got many more tricks up his sleeve.

This fall Saab showed some amazing jewel-toned and muted metallic dresses. He's one of the few designers who can create a dress that looks timeless and yet still totally modern. For instance, look at this stunning number - would this ever look dated?

Or these gowns - any of which qualify as artistic masterpieces, in my opinion:
The sapphire blue one is seasonless, and the color is flattering on almost everyone. And its way more interesting than black (as much as I like black, sometimes a girl just wants to stand out).

The plum color of the gown on the right is huge for fall - not just in 2005, but every autumn. Rich, warm jewel tones come back every year. The beading on the bodice is also very flattering, in that it would nip in the waist and highlight an hourglass figure, or create curves where they are needed. And the matching fur stole is just fabulous, isn't it? Here are a few more examples of Saab's genius. Don't they just make you wish you had a big event to wear them to?
Elie also showed a few cocktail dresses. Almost all of them have little matching jackets or sheer gauzy wraps to cover up with - somehow he manages to make his models look sexy and yet still modest in them.

Finally, although Saab's collection was pretty fabulous, no one's perfect. Take a look at this:

Paint it Black

Black is back in a big way this fall, even though for most of us, it never left. Designers are re-interpreting black in new ways, and after a couple seasons of boho and hippie chic, the little black dress looks refreshingly simple. Black is not only ideal for minimalism, however, it can be perfect for romantic, gothic, sexy, or sporty looks. It is all things to all people.

"Black is the supreme colour, synthesis and sum of all colours," according to Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, whose most recent show featured black-clad models on a shiny black patent cat-walk. "For us, it represents absolute elegance and Mediterranean beauty: black is the colour worn by southern women when they go to church, black are the lace bras that peek out of low necklines and black are the stockings that wrap around your legs, outlining rather than hiding them."

Of course, nothing is as classic as the Little Black Dress. Elegant and sexy at the same time, women have been aware of the power of the "LBD" since Coco Chanel. And who doesn't remember Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's? Or, at the other end of the spectrum, Elizabeth Hurley's safety-pinned Versace number? Here's a few great little black dresses from the fall runways:

Both of these are suitable for many different occasions, but they also have something special about them - they may be basic black, but they are certainly not boring. The top one is Versace, and it could be accessorized 101 ways, and can even be worn during the day. The bottom one is a romantic Valentino piece, which combines the sleekness of black with a bit of Victorian girlishness. There were also some amazing black coats on the fall runways:

This full-length Balenciaga would be stunning all winter, over everything from jeans and a cashmere turtleneck to a slinky satin evening dress. And we can't forget accessories: when wearing all or mostly black, its nice to add some color in the form of subtle metallics or other neutrals. Black with brights is just too eighties for the somber styles of this fall.

Designers also showed lots of black accessories, from a reissue of the classic Chanel 2.55 (the original little black bag) to Calvin Klein's sexy mary jane stilettos. Finally there was lots of black (from plastic to onyx) jewelry, which gave everything a bit of a gothic or an exotic touch.

With all the variations on everyone's favorite (non)color, the fall runway offerings have something for all of us, from a classic black suit to flowy, lacy blouses. Just remember, when in doubt, wear black.

One essential piece for Fall and Winter

What makes any outfit just that much more fabulous? A fantastic coat to top it all off, of course. With so many choices available right now, however, how do you know which one is right for you?
First consider the shape and cut, and try on a couple different styles to see what best suits your figure. A sleek princess-seamed coat in a dark color that skims over the hips and hits between the knee and mid-thigh is probably the most slimming outerwear option. Peacoats are great for a casual, preppy look, especially in unexpected colors like a rich violet or emerald green. For less chilly weather, you can go for a leather or heavy tweed blazer-style jacket, or a classic blue denim topper. Trenches add some classic glamour, and swing coats are a fun look over dresses. Puffy parkas and anoraks can work if done in attractive, flattering colors; but they have to suit your lifestyle. If you are a student, go for it, but if you have to wear a suit to work, please consider something tailored in wool.

Now think about color and trim. Black, navy, beige, and charcoal are the classics, and every girl should have a coat in one of these colors. They aren't too fun, though, are they? For this fall, try a deep teal, purple, or chocolate brown. Bright red or pink are also fun and will coordinate with most everything. Patterns are great too. There are lots of great variations on tweeds and herringbone, and my favorite, animal prints. Obviously, you don't need to use real fur to get this fabulous look. If you're not ready for a full-on fur coat, try a collar and cuffs trimmed with fur. Its cute, classic, and current.

You should invest in a good coat (or coats). Your coat is something you wear almost everyday, keeps you warm, and is generally the first thing people see you in. Make sure you have cute, coordinating accessories, also. You don't want to pair a beautiful new coat with ratty gloves! Don't match your scarf, gloves, and hat too closely with your coat - for example, do teal accessories with a camel coat, or burgundy with gray. Or lime green with deep purple, if you're feeling brave. When choosing a color combination, think about what combinations are found in nature (violet with green leaves, for instance). Don't be afraid to experiment to figure out what looks best on you!

Some pictures of coats that I think are amazing:

Crop pants, Capris, Pedal Pushers, and so on....

Would you want to wear something that makes your legs look shorter and thicker, and your hips look wider? Of course not. We all want to look glamourously thin with long legs. However, millions of women don these unflattering garments every day. I think that perhaps it is a fashion conspiracy - crop pants cost just as much as regular pants, but use less fabric, so they are cheaper to produce. Or maybe industry execs just like laughing at Jane Everywoman.

You may argue "but I look good in capris!" Maybe you do; it is possible to look okay if you have naturally long, thin legs. But you would look better in something else - full length pants, a knee-length skirt, or even shorts. Longer cropped pants just look like you're waiting for a flood. With so many long (37-inch inseam, anyone?) pants available even the tallest fashionistas among us have no excuse.

There are many excellent, flattering alternatives to crop pants. For instance, you can go for a flowy skirt if it is hot out or you want the boho look, an a-line if you want to slenderize your lower body, or even a mini or shorts if you've got great slim legs. Or, just get some full-length pants. I guarantee you will look 5 pounds skinnier and taller too. Here's an example of cropped jeans making a model's hips look wide and legs look stubby:
Now, here's a picture of the same model wearing full-length jeans:
Now really, which one looks better?

What would the Kiffen do?

Dear Kiffen,
I've been taking your advice so far, and I've gotta say that I've never looked better. However, I'm not sure what type of shirts I should wear to balance my rather well-endowed chest with my comparably small lower half. What would you suggest for me?
- Top Heavy

Dear T.H.,
First of all, congratulations on being the first one to ask "What would the Kiffen do?" Really, more people should ask themselves that when they get dressed in the morning (after all, I am the Fashionable Kiffen). Anyhow, you need to balance your top and bottom halves. Start with wearing darker colors on top - this doesn't mean you are stuck with only black, but keep the lighter tones in your outfit on your lower body.

Next, consider jackets - a well-cut, single-breasted jacket will do wonders to minimize your chest. Make sure it fits properly and you can button it comfortably, even if you are planning to wear it open. Tons of designers are showing all different types of jackets for this fall, including luxurious velvet blazers and sharp military jackets. Under the jacket, you could wear a tee or cami, or a crisp button down. You really have to play around with different pieces to see what works.

Certain necklines will look much better than others on you - v-necks, sweetheart, and slash necks work much better than boat necks or crews. You want to create a division, instead of a big block of color like a turtleneck. Always wear well-made, thicker tees, as these will shape you better. And never underestimate the importance of a great, supportive bra, this is the most vital thing you can own.

Finally, flaunt what you've got. If you've got some serious cleavage, show if off (within reason). Wear a nice low-cut top with a pretty necklace, and dust some shimmer power over your collarbone. Trust me, no one will notice that your figure isn't perfectly balanced.

The perfect jeans

What does every girl want? Well, besides Brad Pitt on your doorstep with a dozen roses and a box from Tiffany's, everyone wants the perfect pair of jeans. You know, the jeans that make your legs look miles long, narrow your waist, and give you a nice, round, perky butt (but not too big!). However, what looks amazing on one girl makes another one look chubby or awkward. So, how do you know what's right for you?

First, know your strengths and weaknesses. Do you have a booty like Jennifer Lopez? Or do you have ridiculously long legs? These are what you want to highlight. Now, what do you want to hide? Thick thighs, short legs, a flat butt - these are pretty common weaknesses, and there are plenty of jeans available now that will minimize these flaws.

I'm not a fan of cropped or pocketless jeans. Some girls can make them work, and look good doing it, but they are difficult to wear and can look really dated. I'm also not into extreme fading or destroyed jeans, unless you actually did wear them to death yourself. I do love embellished, embroidered jeans with a simple top, though. For instance, I love these with a basic white or black tee.

Aren't those hot? You still need jeans for everyday though. Length is one of the most important considerations when chosing jeans. They should be about a half inch above the ground in heels or flats - you may need to have multiple lengths for different shoes. Next, think about the wash you want. A medium dark true blue will go with pretty much everything. Darker washes are good for trouser jeans, or when you want a dressier pair for evening. Light washes are tricky, cause they tend to make everything look bigger - great if you're slender, not so great if you have thick legs. These are a perfect neutral denim shade.

Now consider the shape of pockets you want. A too-small pocket will make your butt look larger, and too big will have the same effect. Also, the location and angle of the pockets is all-important. It is basically impossible to tell whether a pocket-style will work on you without trying it on, so you're on your own with that one. However, I tend to like hexagonal pockets to give me a nice heart-shape. Pockets angled in towards the center will accomplish the same thing. Cargo pockets are good for creating a booty from nothing, or making a flat butt look perkier and higher. Beware of fading on the butt and thighs, though - these will highlight the areas in a bad way and make 'em look massive, especially your thighs. Lots of whiskering around the crotch will also make your hips look wider, so that should be worn with caution.

An example of good pockets: These will work on pretty much every shape. The color is good too. The last thing, but possibly most crucial thing, to consider when chosing jeans is the overall shape. Bootcut, skinny, straight, flare, tapered - there is lots to choose from. I'll narrow it down for you, though. Tapered looks bad on everyone, as does anything with pleats. They are just bad. Skinny drainpipes really only work on skinny people, and straight legs are better for boyish figures - you don't necessarily need to be thin, but you do need to have small hips. Bootcut is classic, and looks nice on virtually every figure. Flares are good for balancing out wider hips, but don't go so wide that you look like a seventies throwback. When it comes to the rise, you can't go wrong with midrise (an inch or two below the belly-button). However, if you have a short torso, or just want to show off your toned abs, go lower - about a seven to nine inch rise. But keep it decent, and invest in some low-rise underwear to go along with your jeans, or wear longer tops. High-rises tend to only look good on the tall and thin, with very flat stomachs and slim hips (so almost no one except models).

So there you have it - a rough guide to finding the jeans that make you look thin and your butt look fantastic.

Five Easy Pieces

The other day, I was asked what I thought the five most important pieces in a women's wardrobe were. Obviously, a woman's wardrobe is affected by her age, location, job, and lifestyle. You wouldn't put a 40-year old stay at home mother in the same outfit as a 19-year old college student, would you? Although they could share some things - say, a great crisp white shirt or fitted tee. Some things are timeless. However, the 40-year old would pair the white shirt with a nice pair of khakis and a leather belt, with matching low heeled boots, while the 19-year old would rock it with a short denim mini, flip-flops, and a chunky turquoise necklace. So it is possible to list basic pieces that everyone should have in their closet.

1. The perfect pair of jeans. A medium dark blue wash, no trendy embellishments, in a shape that looks great on you. A midrise bootcut works on everyone, but if you have a shorter torso, you can go for a lower rise - it will even you out. Make sure the jeans are long enough to barely brush the floor when you are wearing heels.

2. A great black pantsuit. Even if you are casual the rest of the timel, you never know when you'll need it. You can wear to an interview or dress it up for a glam evening out, and it will make you look taller and skinnier. And who doesn't want that?

3. High-heeled pumps in a neutral color. These can go with jeans, skirts, suits, everything. They will give all your outfits that extra touch of sexiness and confidence, because nothing boosts your sex appeal like a pair of great heels. Make sure yours are comfortable, though, and you can walk in them. The hottest pair of shoes in the world look clumsy and awkward if their wearer can't work 'em.

4. Earrings in flattering color. These will bring out your eyes and brighten your face, and will add a personal touch to all your outfits. Never underestimate the importance of jewelry, it is the cherry on your banana split of a cute look.

5. A classic leather bag. It has to be big enough to carry the essentials, but not so big that it looks like a briefcase. Try to go for a neutral here, too. Either black or brown, or maybe camel or beige for spring and summer. Get a classic shape, like a top-handle doctor bag or a tote - every girl needs one simple stylish bag.

And that's it - my idea of the five pieces that every girl needs.

Entrance-Makers - when first impressions are all

"It the unseen, the unforgettable, the ultimate accessory of fashion that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure."
- Coco Chanel

What do you wear when you want to make an amazing first impression? For instance, what do you choose when you are starting a new job, new school, attending a fabulous event, or just going to a party where you know your ex (with his new love) will also be at. There are a few houses who seem to specialize in show-stopping gowns like Gucci, de la Renta, and of course Versace. However, if you want to be unique, never underestimate the menswear look. Think Angelina Jolie in a white Dolce and Gabbana tuxedo at the Oscars a few years ago, or go old-school and emulate Katherine Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich. They knew that androgynous clothes on a shapely figure were sexier and more intriguing than showing acres of skin. In some cases, too much is too much!

When you are beginning a new job or going to a new school, you want to come across as intelligent, confident, and approachable. The key to this kind of look is a well-cut jacket that nips in your waist in a color that flatters you, but never black, gray, navy, or khaki. Dull neutrals tend to fade into the background, and flatter no one's face. For example, try on a turquoise or magenta jacket, and then put on black - which one makes your skin glow and eye color pop? Different colors look good on different people of course - you can go to www.colormebeautiful.com if you are clueless about which shades work for you. Or, you can just think about what gets you the most compliments; is it the sky-blue turtleneck or the rust-orange scarf? Then you can look for similar tones when you shop.

Next, you need a pair of fantastic pants. There are as many kinds of pants as there are shapes of women, and you may need to try on a lot of pairs before you find the best ones (hint - bring an honest friend). However, a mid-rise bootcut works on almost everyone. These can be neutral, but try out different, less basic, neutrals. For instance, go for a chocolate brown with a coral jacket, or an olive with a lemon yellow top. As much as we all love black (believe me, half my closet is black), color makes you stand out and will liven up your face as much as a new lipstick. Try wearing a button down or camisole under your jacket that matches either the color of the pants or jacket (again, too much can just be too much).

Next, you need to consider your shoes and bag. Nothing works as well as sky-scraper heels to add height and flatter the figure. However, if you can't walk in them, leave them on the rack. Do try to wear the sexiest shoes you are comfortable walking around in. After all, shoes are the foundation of your look and affect your gait, mood, and general comfort level. Never skimp on the shoes, and always remember that the perfect pair will make any outfit. Your bag does not have to match your shoes exactly, but they should coordinate. You can bring another shade with the shoes and bag - but keep it in the family. For example, lime green would work with a teal or kelly green jacket. Most importantly, the hardware on your bag, jewelry, and shoes should be the same metal.

Last but most definitely not least, you must consider jewelry. Earrings are as good, or better than, makeup when it comes to bringing out the eyes. Try earrings with stones the same color as your eyes, or go for contrast - red with green eyes, orange with blue, etc. Think opposites on the color wheel. Necklaces can draw eyes to your cleavage, which is good both if you have something to show off or want to boost what you've got. Finally, watches, bracelets and rings can add an extra bit of polish to any outfit. As far as the colors in your jewels, you can't go wrong with basic silver or gold, or pick up one of the colors in your outfit, preferably the bright one. Jewelry is where you can get a bit crazy, even in the most conservative setting. And of course, for nights out, too much sparkle is never enough.

Enter the den of the fashionable Kiffen...

I am the quintessential kiffen. I love the elegance of vintage Chanel and Dior's New Look, but I'm also into the slinky-ness of Dolce and Gabanna, the outrageous-ness of Versace, and Alexander McQueen's avant garde looks. Although my favorite designers and runway looks may be over the map, my personal style is much more consistent - I would say it is elegant with a bit of fifties glamour girl, eighties Madonna, and Victorian gothic thrown in. Now that I think about it, my look is pretty eclectic too. But isn't the ability to experiment and change your image everyday the main reason why fashion is so fun?

I'm going to use this blog to record and review my favorite collections, from Helmut Lang to H&M. After all, true style comes from mixing high and low with ease, like mixing Jimmy Choos with a top from Target. I'm also going to write about some of my favorite new pieces, the basic elements that everyone should have in their wardrobe, and my shopping quests to find that perfect item, whether it is a classic black leather boot to a fun flowy skirt. Finally, once a week there will be a "What would the Kiffen do?" feature, where I will answer fashion and style questions.

May your weekend be filled with fun and unbelievable bargains!

Here I am: